We visited Versailles on Thursday.
I started the day off poorly by putting the four of us on the wrong RER train to Versailles. Oh, dear. No wonder we could actually find seats to sit in. Some frizze after we detrained at Versailles Chantier, but it only meant a somewhat longer walk to the chateau. Phew!
Versailles the chateau is very, very large. It appears as several buildings all joined together with inner courtyards and outer courtyards, long ells going this way and that way. I think it must have been built somewhat piecemeal? We entered very easily (again, phew!), picked up our audio guides and more or less followed the mandated route to and (nearly) through the state apartments. Every square centimeter of the state apts is gilded, painted, carved or all three. It is wretched excess in high glee. As we walked through the corridors the crowd grew and grew until it didn't so much walk as ooze through doorways. I'm afraid D and I fled.
We fled to the gardens. The gardens next to the chateau are parterre meant to be viewed from above. From ground level they're a bit boring. We hastened down toward the fountains and explored the tree gardens that flank them on both sides. They're quite wonderful: rather like large mazes with trees laid out in large geometric groups to create allees and spaces for fountains. I don't know what these gardens are called, but they occupy an enormous area. Of course, all of Versailles is vast; it encompasses over 2000 acres.
We rented a boat and rowed to the central portion of the grand canal. Much fun. After lunch, we walked to the Grand Trianon and then the Petit Trianon. These two built when the different Louis and their mistresses/wives needed a rest from the grandeur of the main chateau.
D and I have decided to come back on a Saturday or Sunday when the fountains are playing. We'll rent bikes and explore the outer reaches of Versailles. It's amazing how rapidly the visitor density decreases as you increase the distance from the chateau. XTEP.
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